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When curating a ranking of London’s best eateries, one might anticipate renowned high-end names. But, situated high among these culinary titans is a simple salonu found in a distant corner of north London.

A Unexpected Honour

The small Turkish spot, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the 4th finest restaurant in the metropolis by a respected gastronomic guide. The recognition has made the family completely surprised.

“I am completely astonished,” says a family member, referring to his parents’ dedication that culminated in their modest restaurant achieving such a prominent position on a respected 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

The compact space, which was a basic cafe before its change into a buzzing destination, has kept much of its former charm. It seats just more than 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking show, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky space,” says the owner.

The Signature Creation: Tantuni

However, it’s all down to the fare, and this establishment definitely excels. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a tender quality.

It is then tossed into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are added in gradually. When the meaty mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to soak in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is rolled securely inside.

It is typically enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a strong burst of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The prominent food critic described this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is doused in less syrup than is typical, imparting it a more intense, more aromatic and less sickly profile.

Outranking the Giants

Interestingly, this modest spot has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the peak of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant stuffed for under £25, comparable meals at top-tier establishments can run into significantly more than that amount.

A Ethos of Heart

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an expensive city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I don’t subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is friendliness, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This philosophy is echoed by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he were in a position of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London train at this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the pitfalls of excess, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

A Path of Hard Work

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t apprentice at fancy establishments. “I feel very proud of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to become successful, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum would be really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she had a personal life but her friends would come here to support her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these roles made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

A Accomplishment for the Community

This restaurant’s accolade is bound to resonate outside its own doors. “I think numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the greater meaning of this culinary achievement.